At Matara station a tuk-tuk driver rushed for my business and my only question was "do you speak English?" He did, so I then explained I had a couple of hotel options, but the place I had tried to book (using airbnb) had not got back to me within the 24 hours, and I had to then assume they had no room.
We drove to the first hotel - they had no rooms left. We drove to the next - they had no rooms left. And it was at this point my tuk-tuk driver said "no problem Mr Paul, you stay at my home tonight." Well, I thought about this proposal for a moment and looked at the night sky and the run down looking guest houses we had passed without signs of life (remember the real tourist season for Sri Lanka runs from December to June) and I said, "Yes please - thank you," and we set off.
Now I do not know what I was expecting, but I predicted that his house would be extremely basic and that staying with a stranger was a great risk, but I thought that he appeared honest enough and he said his mother would be at home. So I offered up a quick prayer for wisdom and protection and we set off.
The neighbourhood became increasingly less developed as we travelled, muddy roads and rickety fences. He kept saying "we are almost there Mr Paul." Eventually we pulled up at a roller shutter in a small alleyway with 8' fences to either side. He jumped out of the tuk-tuk to open up and I held my breath.
What lay inside the shutter was a wonderful, modern looking home, with welcoming lights at the windows, a porch and verandah and his mother stood at the door. He told her that they had a guest and she welcomed me in and the two of them hurried to prepare a bedroom (which clearly belonged to a teenage boy.) The room had a bed with a mozzie net, a ceiling fan, a desk (covered with secondary school age books) and a rack for clothing.
"Come see the bathroom," my driver said and walking through an impressive tiled living area with a large TV and music system, leather sofas and a coffee table, he showed me a beautiful room that would put many a western bathroom to shame. Beautifully tiled with a bidet, toilet, shower cubicle, towels, glass shelves and a large mirrored cabinet. "Is good no?" he said. My face must have showed my wonder and pleasure and I imagined getting a shower after travelling for a total of 12 hours door to door through great heat and cramped conditions with the anxiety of the last few hours slipping from my shoulders. "It no working yet, but I have outside shower - come see!"
To say the outside shower was primitive is an understatement. It was a corrugated shed with no light and a hosepipe dangling from the ceiling. "You shower now and we get your room ready." I was afraid of what creatures were in the dark corners of the shed, but shut the make shift door and showered and laughed with pleasure, for it was surely the most welcome shower I have ever had.
"You need wi-fi Mr Paul? I have. You use to get your room for tomorrow, but you can stay at my home if you want." I hastily accepted and WhatsApp'd some friends my location and the name of my host and secured my hostel for the next two evenings. A cup of tea later and I went to bed and slept soundly until 7.00.
Suffice it to say that this experience was a very positive one. His mother was proud of her son and kept saying "he's my son!" More tea for breakfast and then he drove me to the Tropi-Turtle guest house. I left 3000 rupees in my room and insisted we go for breakfast together after dropping off my bags. He then offered me a tour of Matara and the surrounding area as my guide and I accepted. We drove miles and visited a lighthouse, a coastal blow-hole (where the sea shoots up like a fountain from the rocks beneath) a couple of Buddhist temples and the fort before he drove me back to my accommodation. I expected him to ask for a lot of money, but when he asked for 4000 rupees for the 4 hour tour' I gave home 5000, shook his hand and booked him for my return trip to the station.
If ever you are in Matara, Sril Lanka, then please look up my good friend - Charmi Ramanayaka. And if you need a guide and a tuk-tuk driver call him on 0777-486693 or 071-6316814 and say that Mr Paul sent you.
Now I do not know what I was expecting, but I predicted that his house would be extremely basic and that staying with a stranger was a great risk, but I thought that he appeared honest enough and he said his mother would be at home. So I offered up a quick prayer for wisdom and protection and we set off.
The neighbourhood became increasingly less developed as we travelled, muddy roads and rickety fences. He kept saying "we are almost there Mr Paul." Eventually we pulled up at a roller shutter in a small alleyway with 8' fences to either side. He jumped out of the tuk-tuk to open up and I held my breath.
What lay inside the shutter was a wonderful, modern looking home, with welcoming lights at the windows, a porch and verandah and his mother stood at the door. He told her that they had a guest and she welcomed me in and the two of them hurried to prepare a bedroom (which clearly belonged to a teenage boy.) The room had a bed with a mozzie net, a ceiling fan, a desk (covered with secondary school age books) and a rack for clothing.
"Come see the bathroom," my driver said and walking through an impressive tiled living area with a large TV and music system, leather sofas and a coffee table, he showed me a beautiful room that would put many a western bathroom to shame. Beautifully tiled with a bidet, toilet, shower cubicle, towels, glass shelves and a large mirrored cabinet. "Is good no?" he said. My face must have showed my wonder and pleasure and I imagined getting a shower after travelling for a total of 12 hours door to door through great heat and cramped conditions with the anxiety of the last few hours slipping from my shoulders. "It no working yet, but I have outside shower - come see!"
To say the outside shower was primitive is an understatement. It was a corrugated shed with no light and a hosepipe dangling from the ceiling. "You shower now and we get your room ready." I was afraid of what creatures were in the dark corners of the shed, but shut the make shift door and showered and laughed with pleasure, for it was surely the most welcome shower I have ever had.
"You need wi-fi Mr Paul? I have. You use to get your room for tomorrow, but you can stay at my home if you want." I hastily accepted and WhatsApp'd some friends my location and the name of my host and secured my hostel for the next two evenings. A cup of tea later and I went to bed and slept soundly until 7.00.
Suffice it to say that this experience was a very positive one. His mother was proud of her son and kept saying "he's my son!" More tea for breakfast and then he drove me to the Tropi-Turtle guest house. I left 3000 rupees in my room and insisted we go for breakfast together after dropping off my bags. He then offered me a tour of Matara and the surrounding area as my guide and I accepted. We drove miles and visited a lighthouse, a coastal blow-hole (where the sea shoots up like a fountain from the rocks beneath) a couple of Buddhist temples and the fort before he drove me back to my accommodation. I expected him to ask for a lot of money, but when he asked for 4000 rupees for the 4 hour tour' I gave home 5000, shook his hand and booked him for my return trip to the station.
Charmi at the lighthouse.
If ever you are in Matara, Sril Lanka, then please look up my good friend - Charmi Ramanayaka. And if you need a guide and a tuk-tuk driver call him on 0777-486693 or 071-6316814 and say that Mr Paul sent you.
Brilliant
ReplyDeleteIt made me ask the question "would I have done the same for a stranger if our positions were reversed?" And my answer: "probably not."
ReplyDeletePaul
Oh I don't know, I think you may have done......my parents did the same to some fellow bikers who had misjudged their journey, I just remember them taking me out on their Ducati and my mother going banana's lol....
ReplyDeleteHello Mr Paul!, well I've finally caught up with you and your travels! You tell a great story - blummin' 'eck you had me hooked - and I felt the bump of the corrugated shed as it came into view! - oh poor you but it sounds like you were able to take it in your stride :) ... your appreciation for the goodness in your fellow mankind shone through too - bless you.
ReplyDeleteLooking forward to the next installment! x