Trekking In The Annapurna Region - WOW!

I was determined to trek in Nepal, but I was anxious about my level of fitness, my lack of training, altitude sickness and a number of general health issues relating to low haemoglobin levels, iron deficiency and low blood pressure - but apart from that...what did I have to worry about?!

I found a reputable company, booked myself a guide and chose a five day trekking option which avoided Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) and the higher passes which were still closed whilst officials looked for the bodies of those killed and missing from last week.

Day One -
We set off from the city of Pokhara at 7.30 and drove for 80 minutes to a small village called Nayapul (our base camp start point.) Ahead I could see one of the mountains in the range, a baby at only 7,484m called Gangapurna.) And so began our ascent. We walked up beautiful green valleys following an icy grey/green, fast-flowing river, fed directly by snow melt from the Annapurna range (definitely too cold to swim in!) 

Crossing the first of many suspension bridges I felt fresh and excited, but I had not expected the relentless heat. After two hours of constant climbing, I was bathed in sweat and when my guide Chandra said "we Nepalese eat lunch at 11.00" - I was happy to stop at the next guest house. I drank tea, 1/2 litre of water and forced down some fried rice and vegetables, though I was not hungry.

Chandra however, devoured two huge plates of Nepalese rice and curry (dal bhat.) We set off again and Chandra said we were just an hour away from our designated stop for day one and had made good time. He said that if I were up for it, we could begin the ascent of the "4000 steps" and stop later in the day, thus making day two less challenging. I agreed.

The incline increased and the temperature rose. I was sweating so profusely by now that my shirt and hat were saturated and the 'hour' to the steps took me 90 minutes. When I saw the first of the steps Chandra asked if I was sure I wanted to continue today? I said yes, but what followed was monstrous. I started counting the steps silently in my head in batches of 25, unable to look up, speak to those coming down and barely able to shuffle out of the way of those who were passing me.  When I reached 700 I asked Chandra how much further? "700 hundred more," he answered. I thought to myself 'I can make that and tomorrow will be easier.'

I stopped counting at 2300 steps and I was now forced to rest every hundred paces. "4000 steps - my arse Chandra - how much further?" Chandra said 40 minutes more. It had taken me 90 minutes to climb those 2300 steps. Determined, I set off again, dreaming of an ice cold shower and a cup of tea. "There will be a shower won't there Chandra?"  He assured me there would be.

At 3.30pm (6 and a half hours after setting off) we arrived at our new village, Ulleri 1960m. The first and second guest houses we went to were full and I nearly cried! However, the third had a room and I had already started to peel off my soaked clothing and walked to the shower whilst Chandra negotiated prices. The shower was sheer bliss and the smile returned to my face.

Tea, a sleep, an amazing view and then a meal with more tea before I went early to bed at 7.00pm. Breakfast is at 7.00am and Chandra says we have 4000 steps to climb when we set off!!! B@£*^% !

Day Two -

We set off at 7.30 after a breakfast (a modest omelette) and we walked for nearly 5 hours. I felt better today and the temperature was more bearable. Far less sweating you'll all be pleased to hear - I looked almost human when we stopped. The first hour was indeed up steps, but the cool of the early morning made it more bearable and then we entered the mountain forest, which was cooler still and quite shaded by the canopy above - the terrain was easier too.

Huge rhododendron trees and countless waterfalls mixed with a dappled green light and the freshest air I have ever had the plesure to breathe was magical. We stopped for a quick cup of tea - "kiri by yar, callo ched ynus, chinni na halous" - please can I have black tea, sugar not put in. "Da ne bat" - thank you (spellings are entirely my own!) Chandra was pleased with my pace and started to look less worried about whether I would keel over on him. We decided to get a shift on and eat at our destination, Ghorepani (2,874m).

At 12.30 I was sitting on my bed contemplatng a shower and lunch. A group of 5 Germans and a mother and daugther from New Zealand are my companions in this guest house today and we all have many hours to kill before our evening meal. Tomorrow morning Chandra and I will set off at 4.45am to climb to the top of Poon Hill, an observation peak at 3,200m, to watch the sun rise over the Annapurna range at 6.15. Chandra says it will take an hour, but it is steep steps all the way, so I said we better give it an hour and 10 minutes! We shall then descend again to the guest house for breakfast before we set off for our third day of trekking.

Day Three -

Last night was very sociable. Chandra and I went for a walk around the village (well wrapped up as it was very cold) and I found a pool hall with 3 tables. Sheltering from a heavy downpour of hail and snow I ended up playing aganst a local who was clearly very good (though sadly I lost on the black, much to his relief.)

  

          Playing pool at 2860m - as you do!

I had my evening meal with Robyn and Fiona from New Zealand and then sat around the central fire  with the East Germans, 4 Nepalise guides and the Kiwi mother and daughter, chatting about our travel experiences. I called it a night at 8.00pm as the rain and the hail continued too hammer down and set my alarm for 4.30.

I slept soundly until 12.45, but then I woke and could not get back to sleep. A slightly dodgy belly meant that a torchhlit trip to the loo was in order, and the next few hours ticked by slowly as I listened to other guests snoring through paper thin walls and then my alarm went off. I put on my warmest clothes - leggings, trousers, 2 pairs of socks, t-shirt, thick jumper, coat, hat, gloves and neck buff. It was bloody  freezing, but atleast it was dry. Chandra again said we only needed an hour to get too the top of Poon Hill, but feeling worse for wear and rather slow, I said we needed longer.

As we stepped out of the guest house I was in awe at the stars above me - they were not just bright - they were huge! It was a perfectly clear night (and did I say it was freezing?) but I had to focus on my feet and not the heavens as I began to climb yet more steps. The fingers on my right hand had pins and needles, but I was determined  to get to the top before dawn. I needn't have worried. We made the 400m of ascent in just 35 minutes, meaning we had quite a wait for dawn to come. The crowds at the top grew, but even in the pre-dawn greys, I knew that the trek and intense cold was worth it. In front of me was a huge range of mountains, from Dhaulagiri (8167m) to Annapurna I (8692m), Annapurna South (7219m), Annapurnas II, III & IV and Machhapuchre (the Fish Tail mountain - 6997m and still unclimbed.)

The sun duly rose and all the snowy peaks turned golden red and fiery yellow.  I wanted to clap.

                       Annapurna South

We left after 45 minutes as Chandra was eager we got back to the guest house for a quick breakfast and set off, fearing a lack of available rooms at our next stop Tadapani.

We walked up to the ridge at 3,200mm and then ridge walked for another hour. We were above the height of planes flying through the valley below us and the landscape around us was extraordinary. I found the downhill sections increasingly challenging as my thighs started to wobble with fatigue. We decided not to stop for lunch but pushed on instead. Four hours after setting off we arrived at Tadapani, but we could not find a room. Chandra said we should go on to the next village and reckoned it would be 45 minutes more walking. We set off, but 10 minutes later it started to rain again. "The sky is sick," said Channdra "it never rains at this time of year." 

Where we are now is a village with 2 houses! Our guest house is very basic, but the fire is lit and we are out of the rain. I've just polished off a bowl of hot Nepalese dal bhat (and a flask of tea!) and am happy enough. I will have to navigate an interesting 'hole in the ground' toilet soon however, which concerns me... and my bottom!

Day Four -

I found a western toilet upstairs. Phew! (in both senses of the word!) I had my tea last night in the communal living area in front of a fire made from an old oil drum covered with clay. My company for the evening was a mix of Nepalese guides and porters, an American couple, a Norwegian and a Philippino couple now living in Singapore and three Chinese trekkers. My room was freezing, so I stayed in the common room until 8.00 before going to my bed. I read ("Looking for Alaska" by John Green), listened to a little music and then slept soundly until 6.00am when my bowel woke me up and said "toilet."

We set off walking at 8.00 and trekked initially through cool forests and canyons, enjoying the stunning views, but after 2 hours we were once again exposed to mercilous sun and heat. I'd forgotten how hot day one had been, but atleast this was downhill.

Chandra said we could either stop after 2 more hours for the night or trek on for a further 3 hours after that. I decided on the second option as it would give me a shorter walk on the final day and therefore more time in Pokhara. Our 5 hours stretched to 6 and a half, and included a quick stop for tea and a fast lunch. When we reached our final night's accommodation, needless to say my only concernns were for a shower and a western toilet. Tomorrow, we shall just have to walk for 2 hours first thing in the morning - before it gets too hot.

Day Five -

Last night I ate with three lovely women: a Russian, a Korean and an American and we all got along wonderfully. We were then entertained for a couple of hours by local dancers (teens and adults) joined by a dozen 'D of E' teenagers from England - great fun, though I avoided dancing as my legs were incapable of further movement! 

This morning we breakfasted for 7.00 and were on our way by 7.45. My calves felt so tight that each step was painful, but I was determined to finish the last two hours of my trek on foot, refusing all offers of transport as we went. We walked close to a stream which I could see joined a large river in the valley  below. The heat, my sore legs and the sound of flowing water was too much and I insisted we stop so I could paddle. "It's too cold," warned Chandra, but it was bliss (he has obviously not swum in the North Sea!)

We reached our start point in just 90 minutes and Chandra made sure our passes were stamped by the officials - thereby proving we were safely down from the mountains. We found a taxi and were in Pokhara by 11.00am.

Chandra was a wonderful guide and companion. He taught me lots of Nepalese and offered me a job in his village. "We could not pay you, but all the village would feed you and home you and take you places and you could teach our children English while we looked after you." I told him I would seriously think about it. I tipped him by donating him the 38 litre rucksack I had bought for the trek and the walking pole (which was an absolute life saver) and I gave him 4 ten pound notes (he has never seen English money before.)

              Chandra

This was a magical experience. I am tired from the exertion, but my body coped well with the cold, the heat, the altitude and the physical demands of walking for 6 and 7 hours every day. I feel proud of myself and know that I am in increasingly good shape as this journey continues. I would encourage everyone to come and trek in Nepal - it's truly beautiful. 

I'm now off to find someone who can massage my aching body!

Paul x