Paul and Mark's Long Way Down (or is that up?)

In 1987 I arrived at college riding a Honda c90. A lovely little motorcycle that took me over 2,000 miles in three years before it died. In that time I was stopped for speeding once, achieving a record breaking 66 miles per hour in a 40mph zone (my defence being it was 4.00am, a wide carriageway and there was no one on the road - except the police of course!) Not bad for what my college friends had christened 'the hair-dryer on wheels.' Seeing it now brings back an incredible feeling of nostalgia and a desire to buy one again!

                                  

Fast forward 20 years and I decided to get my full motorcycle licence. This decision was partly due to the fact that I had thought (and procrastinated) about it for years, a good friend in Chester was contemplating it too and someone we knew in Skipton, who had always been mad on motorcycles and had encouraged us to get ourselves licenced, had had a stroke and was no longer able to ride them himself. That sad event pushed me over the edge and I started motorcycle lessons (thank you John - I am forever in your debt.)

Once I'd passed my tests, not something that was straight forward I can assure you, I promptly bought another Honda - this time a 700cc Transalp. A group of us have since had great fun touring Scotland, Ireland, Wales and parts of England on them. I must confess to exceeding the speed limit once or twice on mine (I wanted to see if 117mph was indeed achievable as the top speed of the Transalp - it was!) but for the most part, we have all ridden exceedingly sensibly and often rather slowly.

                                             

You will know from my blog, that in Vietnam I bought another Honda, (a Honda Win 110cc) for my epic north to south adventure over 2000 kilometres. I had figured that if Clarkson, Hammond and Captain Slow could ride the length of Vietnam - so could I. During my five weeks riding, I was stopped by the Vietnamese police twice - once for speeding (they said I was doing 60 km/hr in a 40 km/hr zone - news to me as the bike had no working speedometer or gauges of any description!) and once for making an illegal manoeuvre at a junction! Now if you have ever seen Vietnamese road users, the second would have you laughing hysterically - as every manoeuvre by every road user is usually an illegal one. I was fined for the first and cautioned for the second. That little bike coped with everything Vietnam could throw at it: storms, bees, road works, buses, a 2,200 metre pass, blistering heat - you name it, the bike chugged on regardless.

                                  

When my friend Mark said he was coming to New Zealand with a work commitment for the 'Around the World Yacht Race' and asked me if I was up for a little biking - my answer was a loud yes, even though I had to change my New Zealand travel plans to meet him at Auckland. I hoped the expense and alterations would be worth it...they were.

 

                                 

                                 

      Mark's R1200 GS monster

                 My more modest G650 GS

No Honda this time. Mark and I chose BMW's. Mark had always wanted to ride the 1200GS, and I chose the considerably cheaper 650GS. He fell head over heels in love with his machine and now wants one (so if anyone has a spare £12,000 lying around - please contact him); I liked mine enormously, especially the slick gears, but I still prefer my Transalp (but only just).

       

                                

On day one we rode from Auckland to Paihia, getting used to the feel of the bikes and the New Zealand roads. We covered 235kms at a leisurely pace and drank in the coastal scenery before stopping for the night at the Bay of Islands. What a stunning place. We made the effort to get up early the following morning so we could watch the sunrise which we estimated would do so above the harbour waters in front of our hotel. It did and it was spectacular.

                                

                                

                                

                                                     The views at Paihia - Bay of Islands

After the sun had dutifully done it's business and was shining down on the world around us, we had a quick breakfast and set off again. Day two was going to be our most challenging riding day and would see us heading to the furthest most part of the north island of New Zealand - Cape Reigna lighthouse. I made the mistake of saying to Mark I wanted to touch it and give it a good natured pat which turned into the phrase 'Oh I could slap a lighthouse' for the remainder of our time together!

                             

         

                                 

Once again the views on route were amazing, but the rapidly advancing cyclone Pam, meant that we had no sooner arrived, than the clouds and squalls closed in and it started to rain heavily and blanketed the land and sea in thick cloud. With nothing for it but to ride away, we got onto our BMW's and blasted back up the 100km peninsula, buffetted by strong winds the whole way. We averaged 95km/hr on the winding roads and eventually came back out into the sunshine and blue skies of the northland. After filing up with petrol at the first sign of civilisation, we covered the remaining kilometers with tired determination. That night, after riding a total of 465kms, we ached all over and were ravenously hungry. Can you tell?

                                     

                                 

Day three was also our final day. 360kms across the top of the country to the west and then down through the Kauri forests and along the coast back to Auckland. As with all days spent riding, the first hour or two was simply bliss. Man and machine in perfect harmony, buttocks are not sore, roads are clear - everything feels great and you are convinced you can ride all day - chatting and singing over the intercoms full of joie de vivre. It is only when you enter hour three and four on the road that the fairytale begins to crack. Your bum hurts, your arms ache, the road and winds becoming increasingly challenging, conversation dies and you simply want to get where you are going. Don't ask me about hours five and six!

Fortunately, the views were again spectacular and after a stop for brunch around 11.00, we raced on to see the kauris (Agathis Australis).

    

       

                Great place for breakfast   

    

These trees are thousands of years old and we saw some of the last remaining ones in New Zealand, as they were systematically felled for over a century. However, it was the road leading out through the forest that gave me most pleasure. Miles and miles of twisting, turning bends through dappled forest sunlight - no wind, no great speed, just the absolute pleasure of riding. I leaned over so far on my bike on some of the corners that I scraped my side stand three times - a fact Mark chose to disbelieve, until the metal part that helps your foot to move the stand up and down came off in a carpark later in the day and the wear and tear was clear to see! We visited the Kauri museum as we neared Auckland, but had a rushed tour as our bikes were due back at the garage we'd hired them from by 6.30pm. We made it for 6.10. Another epic and long day. 1061 kms in 3 days - what a road trip! I kept having to remind myself that Mark and I were not only riding together for the first time since August 2014, but we were riding in New Zealand. 

                                          

Thank you Mark for a great road trip and please accept my apologies for the fact that I talked so much. 

Mark and I spent the next two days in Auckland as he completed his Around the World commitments. With the cyclone upon us, the more ambitious plans for the Alvi Medica team were abandoned and the departure of the boats was put back to mid week. This meant I was unable to board a vessel or see them all leave on their next leg to Brazil, but it was good to see Mark in full lecture mode, stay as his guest in a posh hotel and be invited to a delicious lunchtime reception afterwards, before we finally went our separate ways. Mark is now back in the UK whilst I flew to Wellington for my next Kiwi adventure.

        

                                        The Alvi Medica boat (orange and black livery)

        

PS - Did I mention that the landscapes were stunning?!!! LOL

Paul

x