When I planned my visit to NZ, the vague recollection of Christchurch made it to my 'to go and see' list - partly because I had heard it was a quaintly English part of NZ, partly because it was a principle location in the south island, but also (for reasons which I know are rather voyeuristic) I wanted to see for myself the extent of the damage, the scale of the rebuilding and visit the cardboard cathedral I had heard so much about.
I was not remotely prepared for the bombsite which is Christchurch 2015. Huge areas of the city have been flattened and buildings everywhere are closed and unsafe for use. As a result, it has the feel of a town without amenities - a ghost town - a town populated by carparks.
But look a little deeper and you find Christchurch has a strong pulse. On weekdays the sound of construction and building work reverberates. City planners talk about a rejuvenated centre coming back online by 2025.
And the cardboard cathedral is inspirational. Using a Japanese architect (named Shigeru Ban) famous for helping to quickly rebuild parts of Kyoto after their quake, the structure took less than two years to erect, can seat 700 people and is guaranteed until 2050.
It is sad to see the majesty of the old cathedral, unusable, unstable and derelict, but plans are in hand to build a new cathedral and eventually give the transitional cardboard one over to the local parish. It is rather impressive to know that this 'temporary' cathedral is made from cardboard tubes, local timber, steel, a concrete footprint and a polycarbonate roof.
What is left of the Cathedral
Punting has resumed on the River Avon, a temporary tourist information hub is up and running, the Museum and Botanical Gardens are both outstanding and rebuilding priorities include the art gallery, Christ's College and regenerating the commercial heart of the city.
On a more somber note the 'empty chairs' art installation is a haunting reminder that 185 people lost their lives on the day of the quake.
Visit Christchurch. Put tourist dollars into their economy and take time to visit the Quake Museum. Appreciate the efforts of the district and national government to rebuild the city and offer up a prayer of thanks that you don't live in an earthquake hot spot.
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