Glaciers, Mountains, Lakes and Avalanches

The word 'awesome' is overly used, particularly by the younger members of society. As is the word 'epic'. Those involved in advertising will use words like spectacular, unforgettable and amazing. I must admit to using my fair share of 'wow words', probably as a result of pushing KS2 pupils to be more adventurous with their descriptive writing. However, when it comes to the majesty of the Alaskan landscape...maybe I should allow my recent photographs to do the talking?

Mountains...

                                

              I watched white beluga whales break the surface in this stunning strait near Anchorage

                                

                                                         Auke Lake, near Juneau

                        

                                

Mountains abound in Alaska. Three significant ranges span the country and hundreds of peaks defy the weather and the heavens, jutting thousands of feet into the sky. Many are high enough to remain snow clad throughout the year, whilst others are covered in trees and are ablaze with alpine flowers during the summer (not something I have been able to fully appreciate, though the Spring growth spurt is staggeringly vigorous.) I have only attempted the most modest of mountain climbs - nothing in excess of 4,000 feet and often along well worn paths, turning around when reaching the snow line, but these mountains are often deserted. Unlike the Lake District, where I have walked every year since going to college, you can go up a peak here and see no other human - just a lot of wildlife (from mountain goats to porcupines, bald eagles to woodpeckers.)

        

   Looking up to Flat Top Mountain, nr Anchorage - put me in mind of my Great Escape cover picture

        

                                     Driving up to Fairbanks through Denali National Park

        

                                            A volcano overlooking the Cook Straits

        

        

    The city of Anchorage, pop 280,000, nestled on the Cook Straits and surrounded by mountains

                                

                                

                                

                                          Approaching Juneau and the 'Inside Passage'

                                

When I flew from Anchorage to Juneau, on a fight which has been christened the 'milk-run', (as it lands twice on the way to drop off people and cargo), I saw beautiful mountains and glaciers stretching in every direction.

Glaciers...

                                

                                    Mendenhall Glacier, 1 of over a 1000 glaciers in Alaska

                                

                                

                                

                                                 Yet another glacier close to Cordova

                                

I made time to visit two glaciers in Alaska, the Portage Glacier close to Anchorage and the Mendenhall Glacier 12 miles away from Juneau. Both are receding, like most of the world's glaciers. Both have ice cold lakes at their bases, often filled with large pieces of ice which have calved away from their parent glaciers to float in the waters like huge icebergs until they finally melt. Both are extremely dangerous to walk upon, especially in a place which registers an average of 13.7 earthquakes per day (5000 per year!) Whilst I was desperate to walk on a glacier, something I have only done once before in Iceland, I decided the risk was too high and the expense of landing by helicopter too great. It is a shame my pictures do not capture the coldness of the air which comes at you from the glaciers themselves, or the ice cold temperature of the waters or even the extreme blueness of the cracks and fissures themselves.

                                

         Talking of receding glaciers - take a look at this picture of Mendenhall taken just a year ago

                            

                                             My Mendenhall picture taken in May 2015

                               

                                                                  Portage glacier

                               

          I fished this piece of glacial ice out of the water, but it has lost it's distinctive blue colouring

Avalanches...

                               

                          This was a baby one between Mount Juneau and Mount Roberts 

                               

                               

Now I have a problem with authority. It takes me every once of discipline I possess not to drive the wrong way around a deserted roundabout late at night, to keep to the speed limit on my motorbike or to use black ink when told to do so on an official form. As a result, signs which warn of avalanches or bears crossing, are too great a temptation for my rebellious curiosity. Admittedly, I have to see them a few times to build up my resistance to their absolute sense, but then I reach a tipping point. 20 signs stating 'Avalanche Area - do not stop' and I want to stop. Signs saying bears are active in this area, and I want to try and find one. The avalanche near Portage Glacier was just too tempting for words...

                               

                               

It seemed to beckon me in the distance. So I drove closer to have a good look. I decided to park my hire car and go for a walk to take an even closer look. It was clear to me that this avalanche came down a while ago, as the damaged area at it's base was free from snow. Huge boulders sat upon shattered trees and shrubs in a 100 metre radius from the base. I decided to approach still closer and at some point I thought it would be good to go and stand at the very bottom...well actually on the snow at the very bottom, and look up. Ice cold air rushed down to meet me and my brain simultaneously grasped the magnitude of the sheer volume of the snow and ice above my head and the need for me to get out of there as quickly and quietly as I could. I gingerly retraced my steps!

                               

                               

I can truly recommend Alaska to everyone. I believe I have seen it at its best. Not in the height of summer, nor the depth of winter, but in a practically deserted spring. Negatively, I had little opportunity to enjoy the snow, as the winter season is over and so many places are closed or inaccessible. Similarly, I have not seen the beauty of Alaska at it's most verdant, basking in long summer days which last over 20 hours. However, what I have seen and experienced has been spectacular.

I've seen the Northern Lights. I've encountered moose, porcupines, eagles and whales. I've dog sledded and walked mountains, glaciers and coastline. I've driven 1800 miles through sunshine, snow and ice. I've flown over outrageously stunning landscapes and visited Anchorage, Fairbanks, Seward, Homer, Juneau and the North Pole! I've attended an ice-hockey match and visited many Alaskan saloons and bars. I've wandered museums and galleries and stepped in the footsteps of Captain Cook. I've learned about the native tribes, seen the Alaskan oil pipeline and learned about the plate tectonics of the region. 

Above all, I have fallen in love with Alaska and truly hope I get to return here one day. My thanks go to all those people who made it especially lovely, particularly: Peter, Nita, Alida, Donna, Tamra and Alli.