Sunday, 31 May 2015

Magical People in a Beautiful World

                                 

We live with a constant diet of negativity. News reports perpetuate the myth that people are bad and the world is bad. When I told people I was going to attempt to travel around the world the majority reaction was one of anxiety. "Oh my - rather you than me. You could get raped, mugged, killed or worse!" This was usually followed up by the question "Aren't you afraid?" and then the statement, "I couldn't do that."

                               

I always attempted to ignore these fears, but they are inherently infectious. After all, I've watched the same news all my life and read the same headlines in the papers. Even though I reassured my Mum and told her not to worry about me, I was anxious too.

But I have news for you. News that will make me sound like a complete hippy. People are beautiful and the World is beautiful too, really beautiful. If I said "hey man, the world is beautiful!" you'd assume I'd been smoking something dodgy wouldn't you? But bear with me, I haven't done that since I was last in Amsterdam!

The World is Beautiful.
This is a non negotiable, no-brainer. Admittedly, I have been to some of the nicest places on Earth, but you know as well as I do, that beauty is everywhere. Beauty that can be seen, heard, smelled and tasted. Shafts of sunlight illuminating forest paths, sparkling lakes and crashing oceans, snow capped mountains and rolling hills, amazing wildlife, fields of flowers, valleys, night skies, sunsets, clouds, rain...I could go on. This is not to say that less savoury places do not exist. Great scars on our planet created by natural disaters and by man. Landslides, earthquakes, tsunamis, fires, garbage dumps, barren wastelands, fouled land and rivers, shocking amounts of human litter and pollution and the impact of over population, over harvesting and war. BUT the beautiful places far outnumber the less beautiful - I know - I've travelled a long way.

And I don't limit a beautiful world to what can be found in nature either, mankind has created some majestic structures, wondrous art and sublime architecture. From cities to towns, villages to single dwellings, I have seen some amazingly beautiful places nestled amongst the natural world. 

Believe me, for every picture I have shared in my blogs, there have been literally hundreds I could have chosen. Exquisite examples of man and nature working in harmony.

                              

People are Beautiful.
How often do we recount negative interactions with other people? Acts of discourtesy, anger, unreasonable behaviour and thoughtlessness are all shared, often reinforcing our thoughts and stereotypes about certain members or groups in society, eliciting the 'there, there' response we are subconsciously seeking from sharing the negative experience in the first place. Do we do this equally when the human encounter is a good one or at least an OK one? I didn't. 

In my travels I have met some people who have sought, for whatever reason, to take advantage of me. Extremely isolated incidents driven by an individual's disrespect towards me as a stranger or as a seized opportunity for them to improve their own immediate situation at my expense. My rather naive, positive yet 'touristy' outlook on life, coupled with some less wise decisions on my part, have certainly contributed to these opportunities. Now I could choose to dwell on these incidents, sharing near-misses and negative encounters with the wider world through my social media on a regular basis. And at times, I have done just that. However, as the extremely vast majority of my human interactions have been so wonderful, I have found it very easy to dwell upon them. In country after country I have been met with warmth, friendship and help in abundance. You will be unsurprised to hear that I have been recording the names of all the people I have met on my travels (rather anally and meticulously of course) to serve as a record of the best of human nature. Many I have kept in touch with as I have moved on, a few I have already seen again and others I will no doubt see in the future.

It is these encounters which fill me with such assurance and confidence about the beauty of people. Let me share a couple of recent examples:

Alli in Alaska. 
Alli is probably 21 years old. She is from Milwaukee, but living and working in Juneau, Alaska. We met on a mountain path as I wandered ever higher with no real sense of direction. The path was delicate and had been eroded by multiple landslides and I was considering heading to a waterfall below me when Alli, walking up the path behind, caught up. 

      
 
I asked her if she had ever walked to the waterfall before? She said she hadn't and frowned at the thought of it, as there was no path down and the sides were steep and incredibly eroded. I asked her where she was heading and she answered that she was taking the Granite Creek Trail, as she had heard that a recent avalanche at the top of the basin there was worth viewing. I asked if she minded me tagging along to begin with, reassuring her that I would probably not last the distance and would turn around at some point? She said that that would be fine. We walked in companionable, but one-sided conversation. I asked dozens of questions, I talked non-stop about my adventures in Alaska and commented on all the things we were seeing and hearing. Alli, spoke little, but positively when the subject matter was of interest to her. I knew I was straining too hard for things to talk about when I said 'I think Happy Days was set in Milwaukee!' As the path got ever steeper I talked less and allowed Alli to pull ahead (especially useful as I was then able to literally step in her footsteps when we reached the snowline.)

For three hours we walked in glorious isolation under a beautiful blue sky. We reached the basin and it was worth the effort. After taking a few pics and failing to ford a stream we retraced our steps back down the mountain before night fell. I thanked her profusely, assured her she was a guardian angel who had probably stopped me from attempting a dangerous waterfall descent on my own and told her that I had thoroughly enjoyed our time together. I declined her offer of a lift back into town, but said that as I was around for a few more days, if she fancied a drink or a meal one evening I would be immensely grateful for the opportunity to thank her properly for her company. To ensure she was not put on the spot, I told her the ball was completely in her court, as she had my blog address and if she chose to look at it, she could find my email address and then send me a message. We parted, and I walked away smiling, wondering if I would see her again.

That evening I received an email. Alli would love to join me one evening, perhaps with some of her friends for a drink or a meal? I replied that we could do both if we met after work! At the eleventh hour her house mate and her boyfriend were unable to join us, but rather than cancel, Alli met me at the appointed time and place and the two of us ate, drank and chatted (me doing most of the talking again.) I had to insist on paying the modest bill at the end as Alli wanted to go dutch.

Now Alli didn't have to see me. She didn't have to accept my company when we first met on the mountain path. She didn't have to put up with my verbal diarrhoea. She didn't have to visit my blog or get in touch, but she chose to do so. Not because she fancied me (she was 21 and spoken for) and not because she expected me to treat her, but simply because she knew what it felt like to be a stranger in Alaska, and she welcomed the company. A win/win for human interaction and a new friendship to boot.

Tamra in Alaska.

         

Tamra is the mum of a couple who have opened their home to travellers as part of the ever expanding Airbnb fraternity. With her daughter and son-in-law away in Paris for a holiday, Tamra had moved into their Alaskan home from Portand, Oregon, to mind the fort in their absence and look after the likes of me. I knew I was in for a treat when she offered to pick me up from the airport. We chatted and got along instantly. In the course of the week we became friends and companions. 

With it being the Juneau Jazz festival, Tamra told me she was off to a free lunchtime concert and wondered if I would like to go along? I agreed immediately and found myself sat on the floor behind 100 school children as a New York based stringed quartet treated us to some classical music. I noticed they were playing again one evening and asked Tamra if she wanted to go along? She did and she prompty got us tickets to the "Brahms, Beethoven and Baklava' performance. 

Durring the week, Tamra and I caught up with each other every day. Sometimes for a chat on the stairs, other times for a walk in the mountains. We even managed a couple of short trips out. When Tamra had a coffee delivery to make early one morning and asked if I wanted to go with her? I answered yes as it was something to do and it meant I would be able to see a little more of the area. When we stopped at Auke Lake before 9.00am the following morning, I knew I had made the right choice. I still don't like coffee though! 

                               

We have kept in touch since I left Alaska a month ago, but I am grateful that my short time in her daugther's home was made all the more comfortable from the conversation and friendship Tamra had to offer. I like to think that she enjoyed my company too. She even influenced my decision to go and see Portland for myself, and when she learned I was going, took the time to make a number of recommendations about places for me to visit.

Nora in Seattle.
Nora was my Airbnb host in Seattle. She made me welcome in her home and as a consequence of my choosing to chat with her in her kitchen on my first day, we discovered we had a lot in common and ended up talking over cups of tea each day. She gave me advice about the sights and attractions of Seattle, and I was very much inclined to follow them. Then, when we saw each other the following day, I was able to share what I had seen and done. 

Our conversations roamed over a multitude of subjects from education to authors, Alaska to Airbnb experiences, but it was Nora's genuine desire to help me see the best of Seattle that prompted her to offer to take me out to locations I would not otherwise get to see. Places like Lake Washington and the  Ballard Locks and gardens. We even went out for a meal one evening to a local Mexican restaurant. 

A cynic would say it was simply a case of companionship for two people feeling lonely, Nora with an ever changing combination of houseguests and me travelling the world on my own. But that does not account for the fact that Nora gave me a book her mum had written because she thought I would be interested in it, or the fact that she lent me another book (which I have safely mailed back to her) simply because it came up in conversation. Nor does it explain her revisiting a place she has been to many times before, just so I could marvel at a feat of 20th Century engineering before dropping me off at the Amtrak train station so I could move on to the next leg of my journey. These were her friendly and helpful choices.

                               
                              The iconic Seattle Market which Nora encouraged me to visit

I could keep listing examples of people I have met, but the bottom line for me is that I am choosing to be more sociable and more positive. The consequence of that choice is I am more attractive (no - not in that way, but as a human being!) My increased gregariousness and overt confidence (still an act quite often) means that others engage with me more readily and it is usually sustained more easily. The fact that I am convinced the majority of people in the world are lovely and worth meeting helps enormously.

That said, I am sat in a Starbucks in Vancouver as I type, and a tall guy has just walked in, grabbed a paper sack containing several 1kg packets of coffee beans and tried to steal it. A small, asian male member of staff challenged him at the door and got hit in the face with the coffee for his troubles. The bags of coffee spilled to the floor, the thief exited with nothing and the the staff member was left shaken, but otherwise unharmed. A stunned audience of customers all felt pleased to see him unharmed, but we were all impacted by that 30 seconds of criminal violence.

So is it just a matter of perspective, the old adage of "a glass half full versus a glass half empty?" A conscious choice to celebrate the positive and the beautiful? I know that there is good and bad in the world. I know that there is both beauty and ugliness too. I choose to focus on the good (unlike the western news media) and I actively search for and expect to encounter it. Indeed, I can have no other attitude. How else would I be able to travel as I do, going from unknown to unknown, interacting and conducting business each day with complete strangers and choosing to trust them? I am pleased to have lost track of the news, shockingly brought back to the fore when I hit the US and saw continuous footage of police brutality and riots in Baltimore on every screen and paper. (Anyone would think that every cop in the country is bad and that America is in the midst of a Civil War judging by the coverage.)

Long may my good fortune continue as I travel. I know that I am blessed. I am seeing this amazing world first hand and meeting fabulous people as I go. 

I say to everyone reading this who is fearful about the world - do not be afraid, but be positive - anyone could travel this planet - it's a beautiful place full of beautiful people who will encourage you, support you and help you. They will even be generous with their time and energy for no other reason than they choose to do so.

                               
                                                                  Me at Whistler

John, on Vancouver Island, contacted his son-in-law and secured me a pass for the Peak-2-Peak at Whistler. He did this because wanted me to see a beautiful part of Canada. He didn't have to do it. He chose to. 

Bye for now.
Paul x

Saturday, 30 May 2015

A Welcome Holiday On Vancouver Island

                              

Whilst I was in Vietnam (back in January - though it feels like years ago to me) I happened upon a cafe called "The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf" in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). Sitting in the window in bright sunshine with my tea pot on an upturned tea chest in front of me, I was joined by a man and his wife who enquired if they could take away the spare seat across from me. As I had the best seat in the place I answered that they could not, but they were welcome to pull up an extra chair to my makeshift table and join me! They did and we started to chat. We exchanged tales of travel and adventure and found we had many places in common. I was particularly impressed with their game attitude to life. You see, they were old enough to be my parents and yet they had the youth, vigour and sparkle of teenagers. We got along extremely well.

90 minutes flew by and, looking at his watch, John said it was time for them to go as they were due for a meal out with members of their tour group who were traveling with them through Vietnam and beyond. They regretted being unable to invite me along, but I reassured them that I was fine, would wander back to my accommodation and find somewhere to eat on the way. We exchanged email addresses and I promised that when I reached Vancouver, I would look them up so we could perhaps meet again for a drink or a meal? I recall shaking hands with John and hugging Sherry (though knowing me, I may have hugged them both.)

We emailed each other once or twice and I gave them the address of my blog so they could follow my adventures if they wished, but it was only when Vancouver began to loom on my horizon that I decided to get in touch and see if they were still up for a visit.

Sherry responded immediately and told me that I was more than welcome to come and visit them both and stay with them for a while. Now I am the type of person who needs a couple of invitations and an assurance that I am not putting someone out or being a burden before I accept an invitation, so I was most relieved when, after a quick flurry of email correspondence, Sherry invited me again, adding "but you do know we live on Vancouver Island though, don't you Paul?" 

                             
     
Well, I sorted out a train from Seattle to Vancouver, organised overnight accommodation in the city itself and then I caught the skytrain and a bus to Horseshoe Bay so I could take a ferry over to Nanaimo on Vancouver Island. Sherry said she would meet me off the ferry and told me that we would be spending a long weekend up at their log cabin with some close friends before returning to their home on the farm. 

     
    Michelle, Dale and I about to joy ride on our Honda Trails110                Derringer and I

                               

                               

                               
                                                    Such a hard life on Lake Horne!

                               
                                    Encouraging John to buy a new, second-hand tractor

None of us knew what to expect. We had only known each other for an hour and a half. Their friends and family were quite concerned about the fact that they were going to host a relative stranger in their home and I had no idea where they lived, where their cabin was or how we would get along. 

I needn't have worried. I had the most amazingly good time. Admittedly, when I arrived at Nanaimo harbour I could not recognise Sherry (though she was wearing running leggings, trainers, a sports top, large sunglasses and a sun visor cap), but she called out my name as I eyed the crowd of people waiting to meet friends and family and I hugged her with relief. We started to chat in the car and we didn't stop for a week. John was at home sorting out five huge salmon he had caught that morning and I soon joined him for a lesson in filleting whilst eating the raw fish straight from the knife. He and I started talking and we didn't stop for a week either!

          
       I even got to steer their yacht for a while one evening, as we went to a local floating restaurant!

To tell you all about the week would take pages and pages, but for seven days I was an adopted member of their family. I mucked in with jobs when I could, I ate, drank, played games and did a range of activities that were right up my street, from stand-up paddle boarding on Lake Horne to riding a small Honda motorbike cross country through the mountains and forest trails above their cabin, from  sailing their yacht 'Molasses' from Nanaimo Harbour to quad biking around their farm land. I met some of their closest friends, ate like a king, slept like a princess and relaxed. For the whole week, my only concern was how to beat them all at cribbage!
      
Is it not remarkable, that a chance encounter months earlier, with a throw away statement 'that we must meet up again' should convert into such a wonderful experience and strong friendship? I have met so many lovely people on my journey so far, but the generosity of John and Sherry is particularly unique. I did try to pay for a meal out and some groceries, but John was adamant I would not get out my wallet whist I was with them. They opened up their home, shared their food and friends and gave me a taste of family life which I have sorely missed. I know we shall meet up again one day.

Thank you for a wonderful holiday.
Paul x

        
      Sherry and I returned to Vancouver together on the ferry when the day came for me to depart, 
                        as she was meeting up with one of her daughters on the mainland.

Friday, 29 May 2015

Sci-Fi Seattle

When Seattle hosted the World's Fair in 1962, it designated a corner of the city to the enterprise and christened it the Seattle Centre. Most strikingly, they built a structure now famous around the world and which has featured in numerous films - the Seattle Space Needle. It's name was actually given in scorn by a journalist of the day, who thought the structure was a ridiculous folly, but the name stuck and this folly, rather like the Eiffel Tower in Paris, is now one of the main attractions in the North West United States.

                                    

I decided to visit the Space Needle for myself and had an amazing two days in the surrounding area, which is now a hub for parks, arts, science and entertainment.

                                
                                                     My Usual Suspects Mug Shot!

           

For those of you who know me best - imagine my immense pleasure at discovering that Seattle was hosting a very special Star Wars exhibition at the Experience Music Project (EMP) Museum adjacent to the Needle! I booked a ticket and entered the world of my childhood. The Star Wars exhibits were excellent and I was able to stand within touching distance of Chewbacca, R2D2, C3PO, Darth Vader and a multitude of other costumes and creations from the various movies. Large screens dotted around the exhibition streamed various documentary programmes about costume manufacture and design, intercut with film footage and interviews with cast members and crew. It meant that whilst others were in and out in 30 minutes, I was still merrily wandering around two hours later! 

       

                             

        

        
                                                  It certainly appealed to my inner geek!

Downstairs, there was more, as the EMP then had an exhibit entitled the 'Infinite Worlds of Science Fiction' and I was able to get close to over 150 original props and items from iconic Sci-fi TV and films such as Terminator, Doctor Who, 2001 A Space Odyssey, Alien, Bladerunner and War of the Worlds.

                             

       

But the science didn't stop there. I then toured Science Fact at the Boeing Museum of Flight, which had an entire building dedicated to NASA, the Shuttle and all things space. 

                               

       
         I even got to tour the lifesize Shuttle Training vehicle
  
        
 
         
Now I can fully recommend Seattle to all visitors. I toured the subterranean streets (the former home of smugglers, prohibition breaking speakeasies and brothels), took a cruise around the harbour, walked the Olympic Sculpture Park, visited the Seattle Museum of Art, explored Lake Washington and the Ballard locks and took time to go to the famous Fish Market (I even managed to watch the film 'Sleepless in Seattle' whilst I was there) before boarding an Amtrak Cascades train and heading north into Canada. Washington State is beautiful and I was blessed with fabulous weather (not the persistent rain which everyone talks about!) Visit Seattle. It is so much more than Starbucks, Microsoft, Boeing, Amazon and the Seahawks.

                                       

                                 

And as for the Space Needle being a ridiculous folly - I went up twice - so I could see Seattle at night too!
Paul x

Wednesday, 6 May 2015

Glaciers, Mountains, Lakes and Avalanches

The word 'awesome' is overly used, particularly by the younger members of society. As is the word 'epic'. Those involved in advertising will use words like spectacular, unforgettable and amazing. I must admit to using my fair share of 'wow words', probably as a result of pushing KS2 pupils to be more adventurous with their descriptive writing. However, when it comes to the majesty of the Alaskan landscape...maybe I should allow my recent photographs to do the talking?

Mountains...

                                
              I watched white beluga whales break the surface in this stunning strait near Anchorage

                                
                                                         Auke Lake, near Juneau
                        
                                

Mountains abound in Alaska. Three significant ranges span the country and hundreds of peaks defy the weather and the heavens, jutting thousands of feet into the sky. Many are high enough to remain snow clad throughout the year, whilst others are covered in trees and are ablaze with alpine flowers during the summer (not something I have been able to fully appreciate, though the Spring growth spurt is staggeringly vigorous.) I have only attempted the most modest of mountain climbs - nothing in excess of 4,000 feet and often along well worn paths, turning around when reaching the snow line, but these mountains are often deserted. Unlike the Lake District, where I have walked every year since going to college, you can go up a peak here and see no other human - just a lot of wildlife (from mountain goats to porcupines, bald eagles to woodpeckers.)

        
   Looking up to Flat Top Mountain, nr Anchorage - put me in mind of my Great Escape cover picture

        
                                     Driving up to Fairbanks through Denali National Park

        
                                            A volcano overlooking the Cook Straits

        

        
    The city of Anchorage, pop 280,000, nestled on the Cook Straits and surrounded by mountains

                                

                                

                                
                                          Approaching Juneau and the 'Inside Passage'

                                

When I flew from Anchorage to Juneau, on a fight which has been christened the 'milk-run', (as it lands twice on the way to drop off people and cargo), I saw beautiful mountains and glaciers stretching in every direction.


Glaciers...

                                
                                    Mendenhall Glacier, 1 of over a 1000 glaciers in Alaska

                                

                                

                                
                                                 Yet another glacier close to Cordova

                                

I made time to visit two glaciers in Alaska, the Portage Glacier close to Anchorage and the Mendenhall Glacier 12 miles away from Juneau. Both are receding, like most of the world's glaciers. Both have ice cold lakes at their bases, often filled with large pieces of ice which have calved away from their parent glaciers to float in the waters like huge icebergs until they finally melt. Both are extremely dangerous to walk upon, especially in a place which registers an average of 13.7 earthquakes per day (5000 per year!) Whilst I was desperate to walk on a glacier, something I have only done once before in Iceland, I decided the risk was too high and the expense of landing by helicopter too great. It is a shame my pictures do not capture the coldness of the air which comes at you from the glaciers themselves, or the ice cold temperature of the waters or even the extreme blueness of the cracks and fissures themselves.

                                
         Talking of receding glaciers - take a look at this picture of Mendenhall taken just a year ago

                            
                                             My Mendenhall picture taken in May 2015

                               
                                                                  Portage glacier

                               
          I fished this piece of glacial ice out of the water, but it has lost it's distinctive blue colouring

Avalanches...

                               
                          This was a baby one between Mount Juneau and Mount Roberts 

                               

                               

Now I have a problem with authority. It takes me every once of discipline I possess not to drive the wrong way around a deserted roundabout late at night, to keep to the speed limit on my motorbike or to use black ink when told to do so on an official form. As a result, signs which warn of avalanches or bears crossing, are too great a temptation for my rebellious curiosity. Admittedly, I have to see them a few times to build up my resistance to their absolute sense, but then I reach a tipping point. 20 signs stating 'Avalanche Area - do not stop' and I want to stop. Signs saying bears are active in this area, and I want to try and find one. The avalanche near Portage Glacier was just too tempting for words...

                               

                               

It seemed to beckon me in the distance. So I drove closer to have a good look. I decided to park my hire car and go for a walk to take an even closer look. It was clear to me that this avalanche came down a while ago, as the damaged area at it's base was free from snow. Huge boulders sat upon shattered trees and shrubs in a 100 metre radius from the base. I decided to approach still closer and at some point I thought it would be good to go and stand at the very bottom...well actually on the snow at the very bottom, and look up. Ice cold air rushed down to meet me and my brain simultaneously grasped the magnitude of the sheer volume of the snow and ice above my head and the need for me to get out of there as quickly and quietly as I could. I gingerly retraced my steps!

                               

                               

I can truly recommend Alaska to everyone. I believe I have seen it at its best. Not in the height of summer, nor the depth of winter, but in a practically deserted spring. Negatively, I had little opportunity to enjoy the snow, as the winter season is over and so many places are closed or inaccessible. Similarly, I have not seen the beauty of Alaska at it's most verdant, basking in long summer days which last over 20 hours. However, what I have seen and experienced has been spectacular.

I've seen the Northern Lights. I've encountered moose, porcupines, eagles and whales. I've dog sledded and walked mountains, glaciers and coastline. I've driven 1800 miles through sunshine, snow and ice. I've flown over outrageously stunning landscapes and visited Anchorage, Fairbanks, Seward, Homer, Juneau and the North Pole! I've attended an ice-hockey match and visited many Alaskan saloons and bars. I've wandered museums and galleries and stepped in the footsteps of Captain Cook. I've learned about the native tribes, seen the Alaskan oil pipeline and learned about the plate tectonics of the region. 

Above all, I have fallen in love with Alaska and truly hope I get to return here one day. My thanks go to all those people who made it especially lovely, particularly: Peter, Nita, Alida, Donna, Tamra and Alli.