Paul's (final) Motorcycle Diaries - Part Three

    

Well, the Top Gear team made riding through Vietnam look quite easy, but it is actually a great challenge - both physically and mentally. The constant, heightened vigilance you have to ride with, looking out for phenomenal holes in the road, immense vehicles, inattentive motorcyclists and a whole host of physical barriers and hurdles is exhausting. At the end of each day I was nursing myself the final few kilometres. The bike (and your body) takes one hell of a pounding as you vibrate, bump and shake your way along. And it takes some steel and determination to get up each morning and get back onto the road for the next leg.

So how and why have I managed it? Because I smile when I ride. It is exciting and breathtaking and it lets you see an un-commercialised side of Vietnam that the tourists who flood Hanoi, Nha Trang and Ho Chi Minh do not see. At times, I was the only Westerner on the road. The only one to stop in the town or village and look for a hotel for the night. The only one to make people laugh with my appalling attempts at speaking Vietnamese! And the roads and scenery are simply amazing. Mountain passes which start feet away from a pounding surf and climb quickly 1000 - 2000m into the hills with numerous hairpins, twists and turns - riding into the mist and clouds, passing temples, war memorials, waterfalls, valleys, fields as far as the eye can see and 93,000,000 fascinating, hard-working Vietnamese who smile easily and are fascinated by the tall white guy on the motorbike.

Visit Vietnam. Go to Ha Long Bay. Go to the capital. Go to HoiAn. But make sure you have a tour of the country to see water buffalo crossing the roads, kingfishers diving for fish, traditional fishermen paddling their coracles and handling their ingenious variety of nets and definitely go for a bike ride. Ride pillion with a reputable tour company (there are plenty about) or rent a scooter or motorbike from one of the hotels. Yes, it is dangerous, but if you choose a destination (like My Son or Hue or the Hai Van pass) and then make it - you will feel proud and impressed in equal measure. And don't be worried about getting lost. The roads are pretty well marked, petrol stations are very numerous and there are not many routes to choose from in a long and relatively thin country!

Day Ten - Quang Ngai to Quy Nhon 210km. When you are riding you are constantly on the look out for 'bike killer' pot holes for they are suspension wreckers. You only need to hit one and that's it - the bike is going to be irrevocably damaged and you are going to hit the tarmac. You can't fail to notice that the road is littered with nuts and bolts and screws which have clearly dropped off other vehicles, and wonder what may be coming off yours? They are something else you have to avoid, for fear of getting a puncture, those and the considerable evidence of previous crashes (glass, debris and police accident scene markings on the road.)

That all said, the weather today was beautiful and I really wanted to motor to ensure I made the distance in plenty of time. Knowing I'd be on the road for many hours, I stopped for lunch and in my best Vietnamese (which is very poor) I asked for 'fried rice with chicken and vegetables please' - they nodded enthusiastically and smiled and then brought me soup and fish! (which was delicious.) Ironically, 3 very large chickens came in and pecked around my feet as I ate - so they definitely do have chickens on the menu! This is probably the first time I've had lunch on the road at a reasonable time of the day and often I've not bothered at all, but I was making good time (touch wood!)

Spoke too soon. I hit a particularly bad stretch of road and my chain came off. Fortunately, I was able to stop safely, but getting it back on was messy and lost me some time. When I did get back on the road, I was suddenly aware of every vibration and rattle and became paranoid the journey was shaking my bike to bits. I therefore decided to keep my speed right down.

On the plus side - the landscape looked amazing in the sunlight and actually quite beautiful. I visited a church and then - high on a hill - I saw an old Champa structure (like the ones at My Son) and I went to investigate. I was the only person there! 4 amazing structures, filled with bats, ancient carvings and 360 degree panoramic views over the land below. 

            

Finally, I pulled into my destination (at 5.30pm) and immediately found a hotel. 7 hours and forty minutes to travel 200km (admittedly with a few stops) but I am proud to have made it. I ache though and I cannot get my hands clean of oil ! The lady at the reception asked me if I wanted some food and says tea will be served at 6.00 - so I just have time to sit for a while with the aircon on. 

Well my evening was interesting. I sat down for a meal and a Vietnamese businessman came in and asked if he could join me? He asked me where I was from and what I was doing in Vietnam? He then said that my ear lobes were very large and that I looked like Buddha (not a flattering chat-up line in my opinion! - It's a bit like my Yorkshire one "E by 'eck - you don't sweat much for a fat lass!" ) When I told him that I was travelling around the world and currently riding through Vietnam he asked if he could invite the hotel manageress to join us for she would be very interested. After the meal I was about to bid them goodnight when he said that we should visit a place 15km away. I told him I was too tired to ride anywhere at night. He said he would drive. The manageress was coming too, so I agreed and he took both of us to the coast where we walked on the beach. It was such a warm and mild evening and the coastline was a stunning mix of huge waves, lights and promenade. We stopped at a beach bar for a drink (I had tea) and I tried to pay, but he said I was the guest in his country. We chatted for ages and then returned to the hotel. I told him about my chain coming off earlier in the day and he said he'd point out a garage for me to take it to in the morning. When we got to the hotel he spoke to the reception staff and told them they were to take my bike to a garage first thing and get it sorted ready for me before 9.00am. He then gave them some money. I didn't see how much and I assumed he was giving them a small tip for their service and I would have to pay for any maintenance work. We shook hands and said farewell. I said I would see him at breakfast, but he said he was going early and driving to HCM City at 6.00am. I thanked him and the manageress for their company and went to bed exhausted. 

     

                 Buddha ...can't see it myself!                           Dung and Dai (the Manageress)

Day Eleven - Quy Nhon to Nha Trang 240kms. I woke up to find a new chain on my bike - no charge to me! I tried to pay some money to the manageress who came to see me off, but she said it was all sorted and to ride safely. What a wonderful gift from a stranger. My planned destination is probably too far to make today as Nha Trang is still some 240kms away, but I will try. 

I set off in glorious sunshine and I have noticed that my hands and face are getting sun burnt! The road opened up onto another amazing mountain pass which I was able to take at top speed as the road was clear and decent for once. I am increasingly falling in love with this mix of coast and mountain. Feeling hungry, I tried to stop for breakfast, but I couldn't find anywhere, so I had to make do with a modest pic-nic of water, crisps and nuts overlooking the coast below (such hardship!)

Refreshed I set off and promptly rode into a swarm of bees! And I mean a swarm. The wind was blowing down from the hills towards the sea and I suddenly saw a black cloud sweeping towards the road. The 2 or 3 mopeds in front of me began to swerve and weave and the riders started to flail their arms around. I had a second to be puzzled about what they were doing when the first bee smashed into my visor. Thank goodness I bought a helmet with a face plate. Dozens of bees bounced off my visor and helmet whilst still more slammed into my coat, trousers and motorbike. Soon I was flailing my arms too as I rode, but mainly because one bee had got inside my visor and was making it's way up the inside of the perspex in my direct line of sight. I quickly flipped up the visor and was relieved when the bee was sucked up and out. I pulled over 100 metres down the road and got off to have a good shake down of my clothes and to check I had no unwanted passengers about to crawl into my t-shirt or trousers!

   

                                                                                             Thank goodness for my visor!

Having covered just 120kms, I was feeling tired so I decided to stop at a hotel half way to my destination of Nha Trang. It was right on the coast, next to the beach and large enough to perhaps offer some New Year's Eve entertainment. As it was still relatively early in the day, I went for a long stroll along the water's edge, beach-coming and looking for somewhere to eat. It was brilliantly sunny, but very windy and the waves were huge - much too big to paddle in or swim. Remarkably, apart from one local guy fishing and one lady collecting shells, I saw no-one else and walked the beach for over two hours alone. A great place to spend New Year's Eve though and great exfoliation for my tired and sore feet.

    

                                        Just me on a deserted beach on New Year's Eve

Day Twelve - Tuy Hoa to Nha Trang 120km. Happy New Year Everyone! It was extremely windy during the night and it didn't let up in the morning when I set off, but the sun was out and it was lovely and warm. An hour into my ride and I came across another fabulous mountain pass. I decided to see what my little Honda was capable of, so I waited for a big gap in the traffic and then went for it, motoring up and down the other side using the full width of the road when I could see nothing coming. I very gracefully avoided the pot holes, oncoming buses and I navigated my way around the slow moving lorries in my path. The views were stunning and I came out at an idyllic fishing village. I stopped for lunch due to the fact that I had found a piece of coast with a restaurant just before the next pass and it was unbelievably picturesque. What a place to enjoy a New Year's Day dinner!

    

                      

My phone has been a godsend this road trip, as I have been able to plot my course and check progress as I have ridden, but I have also used pen and paper to record distances and towns. 

    

                                       What a place to have my lunch on New Year's Day

After lunch I ate up the remaining miles quickly, but nearly came a cropper as I hit a trench which had been dug across the whole width of the road! I saw it just enough in time to apply my brakes and brace myself for the impact, standing slightly on the pedals with my knees bent to absorb the shock, but I still came close to being thrown off and skidded as I fought to regain control of the bike. It marked a real deterioration in road quality, for I spent the remaining hour riding on carriageways of gravel. I had to ride my bike rather like a speedway racer, slewing from side-to-side and drifting the back wheel as I avoided the larger of the hazards. (Actually quite enjoyable, but very exhausting.)

I arrived at Nha Trang at about 4.00 and found my hotel (for I had booked this one in advance) and then went straight to the nearest of the 2 dive centres I had contacted the previous week. The news wasn't promising, but they told me to come back tomorrow. Apparently the visibility a few days ago was less than 3m and the winds had made things worse. They are diving tomorrow morning and will give me an update in the afternoon. 

So what do you do in Nha Trang whilst you wait to see if you can dive? Well I choose to pay a small Vietnamese woman to walk all over me and give me a full body massage (though I must say I have never had my buttocks massaged before - it made me laugh out loud - how rude!) I then had a pedicure (which was more like intensive surgery (2 of my toes are still bleeding) and a manicure (the only way to get rid of the ingrained engine oil from working on my bike.) You'll be pleased to hear I haven't had them all coloured - though if I did, I think a shade of purple would be my choice.

The day was dull and overcast, though still 23 degrees, so I spent it in my shorts, sandals (without socks) and a t-shirt (a welcome break from coat, trousers, jumper and motorcycle helmet!) I had lunch in a bar and found cider - the first I've seen since entering Vietnam - so belatedly toasted the New Year, friends and family. I would have had more than one, especially as I was enjoying beating a young Australian at pool, but I had a meeting with the dive people to see if I would be diving. 

Alas, my extended stay here in Nha Trang was in vain - conditions are still poor, visibility today was less than 3m and the forecast is for rain tomorrow. What a bummer! I decided to be a tourist instead and visit a few key sites here in Nha Trang and make the most of the western food on offer. I also took the opportunity to have a haircut and trim my beard (don't tell anyone, but I think I may be losing my hair!)  It contrasts with the ruddy complexion and tanned backs of hands which comes from prolonged motorcycle riding.

                                        

                           Look - no socks! And some welcome alcohol on New Year's Day.

Day Thirteen - Nha Trang to Da Lat 140km. The riding today has been without doubt the best in Vietnam and possibly the best in my life. Unbelievable. After days following the coastal highway, today I headed in land and into the mountains which form the Vietnamese Highlands. The first thing I noticed was the that roads had a fraction of the traffic on them. They were also in considerably better condition than Highway 1 and not covered in mile after mile of roadworks. 

I recorded an audio clip which I hoped to attach to this blog, but alas it is beyond me. So allow me to type the transcript and imagine my voice, slightly out of breath with awe and wonder...

     

     "Well, what a ride today! Coming up from Nha Trang towards DaLat. 120-130 kms - all up hill. I'm currently on the top of a mountain and I'm sure it is about a 2000 metre peak. The views down below me are just unbelievable. I am about to enter the clouds. I've been looking into them for a little while. I can see them - these sort of misty patches just floating at my head height. Erm, the scenery is stunning and it is silent. I can just hear the odd insect and the odd bird of prey. I've seen waterfalls and mountains and lush green life. Here's a motorbike! (engine noise) It's nice to be in a convoy occasionally. You do see the odd motorcycle. Here's one coming the other way (said with a laugh) Two!  Erm, the bike's performing really well. I'm really enjoying riding it - taking the bends - and the brakes are good. This is stunning."

    

I recorded a second one later at a petrol station and my voice is bubbling and rapid with enthusiasm...

     "So it must be one of the best rides I've ever had in my life! Unbelievable! 140kms up into the mountains - well over 2000 metres, well into the clouds. I had to put my coat on and my jumper on and my gloves on. (laugh) It was wet, I was riding through clouds! The scenery has been stunning. The air has been beautiful - you could taste it - it was so clean. Erm and oh...and...oh,  just the sounds of just me - riding a bike and really going for it. It's definitely the best riding I've done. Erm, definitely the best riding here in Vietnam. And what a day - I've so enjoyed it. I am currently at a sort of little town. I've just filled up with petrol. I've used 40,000Dong coming up here and that's how much I put in when I left Nha Trang - I've certainly gobbled it up going up and down the hills. Erm, but this place is like some sort of Western town. You know, I feel as if I've gone through different countries. I feel as if I've been in America, Scotland and Wales and then somewhere Scandinavian almost - with all the pine forests and things. But this bit looks like the 'old west'. You expect to see horses tied up at little bars. It's amazing."   

    

Day Fourteen - Da Lat to Bao Loc 120km. Today began with a gorgeous ride through forests. I had forgotten that Da Lat was 1500 metres above sea level, so the morning was all descent in glorious dappled sunshine. It is amazing to ride through beautiful scenery with the smell of pine forests in the summer. After an hour or so I reached the plains below and I then had to ride through intense heat. I listened to music and sang continuously, and you should be glad that I am not able to add a recording of me caterwauling, (though to attach a soundtrack of songs would be cool!)

I stopped at a picturesque lake with some Vietnamese bikers who were chuffed that I had chosen to ride through their country. We all had snacks and a drink before saying goodbye and wishing each other safe riding. Just 10 minutes later I nearly had a terrible accident. 

Fortunately, the angels were with me, for I don't know how I controlled the bike and I am convinced that at one point I let go of the handlebars!  A bus shot up past me, beeping his thunderous horn at the last second out of nowhere. With nothing coming he could have pulled out and gone wide around, but instead he barely cleared me. I was motoring (doing 40-50mph) and I couldn't keep the bike straight against the suction of the speeding bus and the involuntary jerk which accompanies all loud horns. Unfortunately, the road crumbled into gravel and dirt to my side and I ended up in it, bouncing, sliding, slaloming like a down hill skier or speedway rider. I somehow kept control for 100m of skidding, one foot touching the floor for extra stability and then managed to make it back onto the road again (still doing 30+mph as I couldn't brake.) I pulled over, offered up a sincere prayer of thanks, checked my luggage was still secure and set off again. I stopped a little while later for a cup of tea, though resisted adding sugar. Ironically, I am still loving this ride - what an adventure!

                                        

                             I managed to pull over, but look at the surface I slalomed on to!

When I arrived at Bao Loc and booked into a hotel I drew some pictures of tools and mimed my motorbike rattling and shaking. The guy at the desk nodded and a few minutes later he came to my room and said 'Come now.' His Grandad and I then went down into the basement garage where my bike was parked and we proceeded to fix all the bits that were loose! Brake, horn, chain guard, mud guard, foot peg - he clearly knew his way around a Honda Win and had the tools. He even nipped out on his bike to get some rubber piping to fix something! We both ended up covered in oil, communicating in mime, English and Vietnamese. What a blessing. 

I've been lucky with the weather too. I had no sooner arrived than a storm cloud appeared out of nowhere and it chucked it down for 10 minutes, before vanishing again just as quickly.

                                         

                           Great views from my room - it was worth paying £2.00 extra

Day Fifteen - Bao Loc to Bien Hoa 165km. Setting off I knew that tonight I would be staying in my final 'road-trip' hotel, for the journey today will take me to the edge of Ho Chi Minh City. I decided not to aim for the city itself, as I knew I would get there at a busy time of the day and I'd be tired, so I will stop short at Bien Hoa and then head into HCM tomorrow. 

I awoke to another beautiful blue sky day and I knew it was going to be a hot ride, so I decided to be on the road by 9.00am. It still took me until 3.15 to arrive - so I was pleased with my decision to set off early. I was expecting heat, but not the continuous strong, hot, dry wind blowing at me the whole way. I always ride in a coat, boots, trousers and helmet to give me some form of protection should I come off, but many locals here are in shorts, t-shirts and flip-flops (with some lads not wearing the t-shirt.) Everyone is very friendly and whenever I stop they want to know where I come from, where I've been and where I'm going? When I tell them I am riding to HCM they are stunned and look me up and down and then my bike. I get the distinct impression that this is still not such a common occurrence and not something Vietnamese people do.

I stopped strategically every 40 minutes or so today due to the temperatures. Once for breakfast, once to fill up with petrol, once to look around a church, but my best stop was at a roadside shack for an ice cold Pepsi (other colas are available!) I nearly feel asleep in a hammock there. I met two young Vietnamese lads who were riding to HCM and they chatted to me about my journey and gave me some of their food before they left. When it was time for me to leave, I discovered that they had paid for my drink - they were only 17 years old.

                          

              Uncomfortably hot clothes to ride in

Day Sixteen (on the road) - Bien Hoa to Ho Chi Minh City 35kms. I wanted to avoid the morning rush hour and knew I did not have far to ride so had I had a lie in and set off from my hotel at 11.00. This was the hottest day of the trip so far. One hour and forty minutes to get into the city and find my hotel (down an obscure alleyway.) When I arrived I was sweating profusely. This was partly due to the heat (35 degrees and humid), but mostly due to the traffic. Thousands of motorbikes! (and I mean thousands of them) and the first traffic jams of my entire trip. HCM is a modern looking city of skyscrapers and highways (I even passed a McDonalds and a Burger King - the first I have seen in Vietnam.) When I turned off the ignition of my bike and crawled into the hotel peeling off my coat and helmet, I nearly cried with relief. I had made it.

    

I reckon the whole journey clocks in at just over 2000kms with detours and trips out. I purchased my bike on Monday the 15th of December and started riding on Tuesday 16th. It has taken me 24 days.

I am so proud of myself! What a challenge - to ride the length of a foreign country, taking each day as it comes, without set plans, but with flexibility. I needed this as part of my continued evolution, for usually I have to know exactly what I will be doing each day, as part of my anal approach to life. I am feeling bold and confident and I know that I have just completed an epic Vietnamese adventure.

That said, I am very pleased to have finished my trip. The roads here in HCM are so crazy that I have become fearful of riding them! Indeed, I believe that if I had attempted this trip starting in HCM and heading north, I would have stopped on the first day and returned the bike to wherever I had bought it. The volume of traffic is staggering. The city has a population of 11,000,000 people and best estimates put the number of motorbikes and scooters between 7 and 9 million. On the bus tours I took yesterday, I looked down on the bikes weaving impossibly in and out of the traffic in their hundreds and felt a panic I had not experienced the whole journey. The continuous near-misses I witnessed from my elevated vantage point on the bus left me incredulous about the fact that I had actually ridden amongst it all. In fact today, when, it came to selling my bike - I did not even want to ride it to a garage and was immensely relieved when they came to me. I wonder if this sense of worry is actually God saying to me "OK Paul, enough's enough. My angels have been with you for a long time now and they have other people to help. Stop riding in Vietnam!"

Thank you to everyone who encouraged me, prayed for me and followed me on this journey. Looking back isn't it amazing to see how blessed I have been by the people I met on the way? From the family I ate my lunch with to Dung who paid to fix my bike. Wow!

         

                                        

                                            Sold Jan 10th 2015 - one careful owner!

Paul x